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Showing posts with label Yellowstone. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Yellowstone. Show all posts

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Yellowstone -- After Thoughts & Tips





A rookie's experience to J.H, GTNP, and YSNP


Growing up and having lived in metropolitan cities for all my life, this was the first time I planned a whole week trip that was only about nature and wildlife.  

I did not own any outdoor gear, and my sneakers only touched the floor of the gym.   I ordered a pair of hiking boots online 2 days before the trip, which was probably unnecessary since the minimum of hikes we did were all very mild and tame. 

Turned out, lacking any connection to modern society was very easy to handle at this part of the world.  I did not miss any TVs, cellphones, newspapers, or internet access.  When facing such beautiful surroundings, life could be so simple.  It was hard not to feel joy when I see all the geographical wonders and exotic animals.  We did not even turn on the radio in the car when driving because the music felt like noise.  We wanted to hear the wind, the river, the geysers erupting, animal sound, and occasionally, something very very rare, complete silence....

Here are some tips I learned from this trip:
  • When to go:


    • I imagine we would feel less relaxed dealing with all the people and cars, if we visited the park at the peak of the tourist season in July and August.  I thought we were lucky with our timing as the weather was still warm enough for most of the park facilities and activites to stay open, and the crowds much smaller. 

    • The western cookout was extremely popular and could have as many as 200 people during the peak summer time.  The cookout only last till mid September.  There were about 50 people on that day for our cookout. Again, I imagine our experience would be quite different if we were there with 200 other people.

    • We were quite lucky with the weather when we visited.  There were only two brief thunderstorms and quick showers.  The temperature was in the 30's in the early morning, but it would warm up to the 70's during the day.  I am guessing that spring time would be a great time to visit if we wanted to see more animals.

  • Itinerary:


    • 7 days 6 nights felt like a good amount of time for the way we traveled since we did not do any serious hiking.  A half day for Jackson Hole and one full day for Grand Teton was enough for us.  


    • For a first time visitor, the geyser basins between Old Faithful and Madison junction would take two days to visit. 

    • If I could do something different, I would visit Lamar valley again in the early morning, book a two hour horse ride at the ranch, and spend one night in Grand Teton National Park. 

    • It is essential to stay in the park if you can to save the travel time back and forth. The speed limit is between 25 to 45 miles per hour.  The road close/construction and occasional animal traffic jam add time to the drive too. 

    • We loved our room in the original section of the Old Faithful Inn.  It was so quaint and full of character.  If you want the old room with bathroom in the Old Faithful Inn, book a year in advance. 

    • We had the best luck seeing wildlife at the crack of dawn.  It was so peaceful and serene to be on the road alone and watch the sunrise. 

    • Personally, I thought the Snake River Float was too slow and too long, but Hans enjoyed it.  There are many companies providing float trips.  Most companies have meeting points at the Moose Entrance, south end of the Grand Teton National Park.   I believe the Grand Teton Lodge Company is the only one that has its meeting point inside the Jackson Lake Lodge, which is at the north side of the Grand Teton National Park.

  • What to pack:


    • Layers of clothing is essential to deal with the drastic temperature changes throughout the day.  
    • Packing up food for lunche made our travel so much easier since restaurants and groceries are few and far in between inside of the park.  A cooler to store your food is definitely a good idea. 

    • A good camera is worth the investment.  Bring back-up batteries and memory cards. A pair of binoculars is a good addition if you have it.  A telescope would not be necessary to purchase just for this trip alone. 
    • Sunblock! I really did not realize how strong the sun can be at this high altitude until my chest got burned after the first day. 

    • A Swiss knife with a cork screw, knife, and scissors definitely comes in handy. 

    • Flashlights are a good idea, even for walking from the hotel/lodge lobby back to your cabins at nights.





    Tuesday, October 13, 2009

    Yellowstone -- Snake River, Moose Bridge & Jackson Hole 9.7.09



                                                                             * Snake river float trip
                                                                             * Moose bridge
                                                                             * Jackson Hole
                                                                             * Gun Barrel Steak & Game House


    View 9.7.09 in a larger map


     
    We tried to check out of the Lake Lodge at 4:50 AM for our Snake River float at 6:45 AM in Jackson Lake Lodge.  There was no one at the lodge reception so we could not check out.  We left a note and left the room keys in our cabin and left. 

    On the way down to Jackson Lake, it was cloudy, cold and drizzling.  But a little after we were on the float, the sky cleared up.  

    The float last about three hours.  It was peaceful, slow, cold, and frankly, a bit boring because it was two hours too long for my taste.  

    I was hoping that by taking the early morning float, I was able to see some wildlife.  On the snake river, we did see some birds, geese, two female elks, more bisons, and a few bald eagles, but I would have loved to see black bears, wolfs, and moose before I would leave the park.

    By the time we finished the float, my lips turned blue because I was so cold.  

    After the float trip, we headed down to Jackson Hole.  We wanted to drive by the moose bridge to see if we could spot some moose before we leave the park.  And as we drove closer to the bridge.  There was a traffic jam, many parked cars, and animal paparazzi crowded on one side of the bridge. Hallelujah!! It had to be a moose!!  We parked our car, brought camera and binocular, and ran to the bridge.  

    There it was!! A moose bull with giant antlers, laying in the grass by the river! YES!!!

    We stayed a good twenty minutes, and took tones of pictures and videos.  It was so exciting. :)

    After the moose sighting, we left the park and drove to Jackson Hole. The scenery there reminded us of the Alps in Austria where Hans grew up. 

    After we checked into our room at the Buckrail Lodge, we walked around Jackson Hole.  After 7 days of no TV, Radio, Internet, and Cellphone access, we re-enter the modern world.  We stopped by the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar to get an elk burger and some local beer. 

    We went to Gun Barrel Steak and Game House for dinner.  After 6 days of cold cuts and park food, this meal was such a treat!

    Fried Green Tomatoes: herb encrusted and lightly fried, drizzled with a chipolte mayonnaise sauce. 

    Bison Carpaccio: rare, hickory smoked buffalo, thinly sliced and chilled, drizzled with dijon mustard, served with fresh smoked gouda and garlic toast. -- Super delicious!

    French Onion Soup

    Buffalo Sirloin: Tender buffalo top sirloin, mesquite grilled medium rare and served with cajon onion straws with garlic mash potato and string beans. -- It was so juicy and flavorful!


    Chocolate Ganache Cake: Dark Chocolate cake topped with chocolate ganache, fresh whipped cream and chopped pistachios.

    After dinner, we headed back to our hotel, watched some TV, checked some emails, and packed up for our departure the next morning.


    Photo Album

    Jackson Hole, Grand Teton, Yellowstone Day 6




    Sunday, October 11, 2009

    Yellowstone -- Grand Teton & more Geyser Basin 9.6.09



                                                                       * Jackson Lake Dam
                                                                       * Jenny Lake & Hidden Falls
                                                                       * Antalope Flats Road
                                                                       * West Thumb Geyser Basin 


    View 9.6.09 in a larger map
     




    We got up today at 6AM and drove down to Grand Teton.  On the road between Yellowstone South Entrance and Grand Teton Colter Bay Visitor Center, we spotted a Grizzly bear!!  It was soooo surreal!

    We stopped at Colter Bay Visitor Center to get some tourist information and booked a snake river float trip for the next morning. 


    We followed the driving tour and stopped at many viewpoints and overlooks to take pictures.  Jackson Lake Dam was picturesque.  

    We also stopped at South Jenny Lake, took the shuttle boat across the lake, and hiked half a mile to Hidden Falls. 

    We drove to Antelope Flats Road and took some more pictures with old ranches in the background. 

    We headed back to the Yellowstone park in the early afternoon and there were many more cars on the road for the labor day weekend. On the way to the West Thumb Geyser, it started to rain for a few minutes.  Luckily when we arrived at West Thumb Geyser Basin, it was sunny again. 


    The thunderstorm across the Yellowstone lake provided an amazing backdrop. 

    The contrast of the color was so dramatic.  Some of the scenery looked almost like white sand beach in the Caribbean. 


    After the West Thumb Geyser Basin, we headed back to the Lake Village and took more pictures on the road.  This picture reminded us of a motu in Bora Bora.


    We had dinner at the Lake lodge cafeteria and hung out in the lodge drinking wine and playing cards in the evening. 




    Photo Album
    Jackson Hole, Grand Teton, Yellowstone Day 5




     

    Friday, October 9, 2009

    Yellowstone -- Lamar Valley, Grand Canyon & Mud Volcano 9.5.09



                                                                 * Lamar Valley
                                                                 * Grand Canyon of Yellowstone
                                                                 * Mud Volcano


    View 9.5.09 in a larger map


    That morning we got up at 5:30 AM and checked out of the Mammoth hotel.  We saw a few more elks before we left.  

    We were on our way to Lamar Valley, but got lost twice before we got there.
     

    We got some pictures of mountain goats and Pronghorn Antelopes, and saw either a coyote or fox on the way to Lamar valley.

    By the time we got to Lamar Valley, it was already in the middle of the morning, not the best time to see the wildlife close by.  
    We did see many people with telescopes that spotted some wolfs far far far away. 

    We drove down to the Canyon area and took the North Rim Drive and South Rim Drive. 


    The lower fall was definitely more impressive than the upper falls.  Hans was so impressed by the majestic views of the canyon. 

    It was the first day of the Labor Day Weekend, and we could see that there were many more cars and tourists on the roads than the past few days.  There were traffic jams along the Hayden Vally.  We were not sure if it was caused by bisons, but we did see plenty of bisons hanging out in the valley. 

    We took a walk around the Mud Volcano area.  Boy, the sulphur there had a really strong smell. 

    After Mud Volcano, we checked into the Lake Lodge at the lake village. 
    Our cabin was really nice. We hung out at the lake hotel before we went back to bed.


    Photo Album





    Wednesday, October 7, 2009

    Yellowstone -- Bison herds & Mammoth Hot Spings 9.4.09



                                                                      * Bison herds in Hayden Vally
                                                                      * Norris Geyser Basin
                                                                      * Mammoth Hot Springs
                                                                      * Roosevelt western cookout

    View 9.4.09 in a larger map 

    We got up around 5 AM and checked out of Old Faithful Inn. We were leaving Old Faithful Inn that morning and headed to Mammoth Hot Springs.  Because the road between Madison to Norris was closed, we had to take a detour which added probably 2 hours to the drive.  I enjoyed getting up so early in the morning to watch the sunrise and the change in the sky.

    It was very foggy at some point, but the fog disappeared quickly. 

    We saw several bison herds in Hayden Valley.  They caused quite a traffic jam.  The sight of a bison herd crossing the Yellowstone river was amazing.

    The Yellowstone river was so serene.

    We stopped at Norris and walked through the geyser basin trail. 

    The scenery at Norris Geyser Basin was quite different than what we saw yesterday.  They were not quite as colorful.  But the landscape was beautiful.  I felt like I was walking on a different planet. 

    After Norris Geyser, we continued our drive up to Mammoth Hot Springs. We drove through the upper Terrace Drive and walked through the Lower Terrace trail.

    I have no words to describe what I saw. I was in awe.

    We checked into our cabin in Mammoth Hot Springs hotel, and took an hour nap. After the nap, we drove to Town-Roosevelt for our horse ride and a western cookout.

    The ride to the cookout was easy. I enjoyed the scenery and felt really relaxed. Unfortunately we were not allowed to bring our cameras while we were on the horse since we needed to pay attention to our horses. My horse Lakota was a short and slow male horse who liked to eat grass whenever he could.

    The cook out was in a beautiful vally.

    We ate steaks, drank really good cowboy coffee, and listened to some country songs.


    After the dinner, we rode our horses and took a shorter route back to the range. My butt and knees were killing me, but I enjoyed the whole western experience so much that I almost wished I booked the 2 hour horse ride.  We were told that the scenery was even more amazing.  We drove back to our cabin in Mammoth and called it a night. 

    When we got back to the Mammoth Hot Spring Village, there was a male elk who caused quite a stir.  The park rangers were at the scene and asked people to get back inside of their cabins.  Supposely, this particular male elk was more violent than others.  Unfortunately, we were too far away and it was too dark for us to get any pictures.  We asked a funny lady at the hotel reception desk where we have the best chance to see animals.  She asked us to hold on a second, picked up the phone receiver, and asked in a serious voice, "Hello elk, where will you be tomorrow?"  We all laughed.  Haha, I guess we would have to find out the next day. 




    Photo Album








    Monday, October 5, 2009

    Yellowstone -- Firehole, Lower & Upper Geyser Basins 9.3.09



                                                      * Firehole Lake Drive & Firehole Canyon Drive

                                                      * Midway Geyser Basin

                                                      * Black Sand Basin

                                                      * Upper Geyser Basin

    View 9.3.09 in a larger map

    We woke up at 6AM.  It was freezing cold in the morning.  I had to wear a hat and gloves.  We saw some bisons right by the Inn.  


    We drove up towards Madison Junction to begin our geyser basin tour. We took the Firehole Lake drive first.  The sunlight hits Great Fountain Geyser. 


    We turned around  from Firehole Canyon Drive and saw the Firehole Fall. 


    The Firehole river was so peaceful in the morning. By 10 AM, it was getting hot that I peeled all my winter layers away.


    We walked around the Fountain Paint Pot.


    We walked through the Midway Geyser Basin trail. The bright colors of Grand Prismatic Spring was an incredible sight.


    We also took a walk through Black Sand Basin. The Emerald Pool was so surreal.  


    We went back to the Inn to take an one hour nap, and woke up just before 2PM to catch the Inn architecture tour.


    After the tour, we spent a few hours walking through the Upper Geyser Basin trail. We saw the Old Faithful eruption for the 3rd or 4th time.


    The walk along the way was beautiful.  

    All the geysers were so mesmerizing that I was tempted to touch the water or jump in for a swim.....
     

    The reflection of the sky in  the Beauty Pool
     

    Giant Geyser


    Morning Glory Pool


    Castle Geyser
     

    After the upper Geyser walk, we were beat. We got some take out from the general store and sat on the Inn terrace enjoying the sunset.